Here is an example of the steps you need to go through for the most basic of flag paving installations.

 

Check list 
Before you start, make sure you have everything you need. Below is a list of tools and materials you will need.

 

Spade, rake, broom, rubber mallet, spirit level, string line, tape measure, pointing trowel, cutting tool (e.g. disc cutter), cement mixer (not essential) and compactor (mechanical if possible), wheelbarrow and some personal protection equipment such as gloves, glasses and protective footwear.

You will also need your choice of paving, building sand, washed sharp sand, cement, DTp Type 1 Sub-Base. 

• Step 1 - Get organised

Arrange your materials to be stacked nearby on dry ground and allow enough room for mixing mortar nearby.

• Step 2 - Marking out

Mark out the paving area according to your plan.  

 

• Step 3 - Digging out

Clear all vegetation and remove the topsoil, consolidating and levelling the ground to a suitable depth to allow for bedding materials and the paving (Detailed later in this guide).  Remember the top surface of the paving should be at least 2 brick courses (150mm) below the level of any damp proof course when installed.

 

• Step 4 - Setting your levels

Use pegs and string line as a guide around the perimeter of the area to ensure an even finished surface and include a 1:80 fall as a drainage slope away from any buildings or fences. 

 

• Step 5 - Installing the subbase

All paving should be laid on a firm, level base to ensure long-term stability.  Lay approximately 100mm of DTp Type 1 Sub-base material and compact well to a minimum of 75mm depth.                                 

• Step 6 - Laying the mortar bed

We recommend perimeter bedding with a dab in the middle.  If you are installing natural stone, lay a full mortar bed to cater for thickness variations.   Use a mortar mix of one part cement to 6 parts building sand.  The depth of the mortar bed should be at least 25mm.  Only lay a bedding area that you can use within a reasonable amount of time so it does not cure too soon.

 

Lay flags from different packs for the best overall effect of texture and colour.  When positioning,, take care with large sizes (two people working together helps to prevent the risk of injury and breakages).

 

 

• Step 7 - Laying the flags

Lay each flag in turn, tapping down using the rubber mallet and spirit level, maintaining the slope mentioned above. 

 

Natural stone paving should be laid with the greater surface area face up, the cut edge (chamfer), should diminish towards the ground.

 

We recommend a nominal joint width of 10mm on most paving.  Some Brett products can be butt-jointed, 

 

• Step 8 - Leave to dry

Once all the paving is laid, leave the mortar to set and do not use the area for at approx 24 hours.  Cover if rain is forecast.

 

• Step 9 - Pointing up

To finish, joints should be pointed on a dry day.  This is done using an almost dry mortar mix of one part cement to four parts washed sharp and.  Ensure this is thoroughly mixed.

 

This should be trowelled into the joints, smoothed over and then pointed either with a pointing tool or a rounded piece of wood.  Clean mortar spillages immediately to prevent staining.

All finished!

Tips
• When laying small areas, buy project packs that feature mixed sizes.  These are economical and provide a balanced mix of sizes for a traditional look.

• Try to avoid joint lengths of more than 3 flags to improve the appearance of your finished project.

• If required, install edging, manhole covers and drainage channels before your main paving.

 

how to install concrete block paving

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Here is an example of the steps you need to go through for the most basic of block paving installations.

Check list 
Before you start, make sure you have everything you need. Below is a list of tools and materials you will need.

 

Spade, rake, broom, club hammer, chisel, spirit level, string line, tape measure, screed bar or straight timber, cutting tool (e.g. disc cutter or block cutter), cement mixer (not essential) and compactor (mechanical if possible), wheelbarrow and some personal protection equipment such as gloves, glasses and protective footwear.

 

 

You will also need your choice of block paving, drainage items, edging or kerb, sharp sand, jointing sand, concrete mortar mix for haunching (job dependent), DTp Type 1 Sub-Base. The quantity of the materials will depend on the size of the area you are installing.

• Step 1 - Get organised

Arrange your materials to be stacked nearby on dry ground.

• Step 2 - Marking out

Mark out the paving area according to your plan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

• Step 3 - Digging out

Clear all vegetation and remove the topsoil, consolidating and levelling the ground to a suitable depth to allow for bedding materials and the paving (Here we are using 60mm Alpha Antique). Remember the top surface of the paving should be at least 2 brick courses (150mm) below the level of any damp proof course when installed. If you need to fill any voids, use DTp type 1 sub-base material.

 

 

• Step 4 - Setting your levels

Use pegs and string line as a guide around the perimeter of the area to ensure an even finished surface and include a 1:80 fall (25mm per metre) as a drainage slope away from any buildings or fences.   Then following these falls, install any manhole covers or drainage channels following the manufacturer’s recommendations.

 

• Step 5 - Installing the subbase

Fill the area with at least 50mm of sub-base material and compact well with a plate vibrator. Repeat twice to a total depth of at least 100mm after compaction to provide firm solid base.

 

 

• Step 6 - Installing the edge restraint

Now its time to install your chosen edge restraint. As we are installing block paving on a patio, we are simply using the same block paving as an edge. To install, set the edge unit in approximately 100mm of concrete haunching (1 part cement, 5 parts building sand) half way up the side of the edge unit, so that the top surface is at the correct finished level. For driveways, we recommend you use one of our decorative kerb ranges for increased strength.

 

 

• Step 7 - Installing the sand bed

Once the haunching has dried, spread coarse sharp sand to a depth of 50mm, compact with the plate vibrator and spread a further 25mm of sharp sand over the area as a loose screed. Level the loose sand with a screed bar or straight edged timber. Be sure to follow the string lines to maintain any falls.

 

 

• Step 8 - Laying the block paving

Lay blocks hand tight, following the chosen pattern, with a joint gap of 2-5mm, starting in one corner and at the bottom if there is a slope.

 

 

• Step 9 - Blending block paving colours

Brett block paving is best laid from three packs for single colours and as many as five for multi colours. This helps to provide the best effective colour blend, and avoid any colour mix patching. Take the time to occasionally stand back and review progress to make sure you are happy with the overall look.

 

• Step 10 - Edging in

Once the area is filled with whole blocks you will need to edge in. To do this, use a block cutter, disc cutter or bolster chisel and club hammer. Avoid using pieces smaller than a quarter of a block, and do not make them too tight.  If you need to cut blocks to fit, use protection and measure carefully to avoid wastage.

 

 

• Step 11 - Review your work

Once complete, sweep the area thoroughly, particularly if you have been cutting on the laid block surface. Then check the paving to ensure none of the blocks have been damaged as now is the time to replace them.

 

• Step 12 - Compacting

Compact the whole area with 4 perpendicular passes of a plate vibrator in overlapping directions.

 

 

• Step 13 - Sanding in

Sweep jointing sand across the whole area, ensuring all joints are filled. One 25kg bag of Brett joint sand should cover about 5 sq.m. Only do this in dry weather to ensure the sand falls into the joints efficiently.

 

 

• Step 14 - Compact again

Use the plate vibrator over the whole area again and add more sand to the joints where necessary. Repeat until there are no gaps. You can leave a small amount of surplus sand on the paving to wash into the joints as they continue to settle.

 

Tips
• When the installation has been completed, save some of the left over blocks and put them in the garden so that they weather at the same rate as the installation. Should your installation become stained or damaged, you will be able to replace some of the section with paving that will blend in quickly.

• As it is a flexible surface, over the first 12 months the paving will continue to settle. This might result in further loss of sand, which should be topped up during this period.

• If you intend on sealing block paving, it is best to wait 12-18months whilst any efflorescence is exposed and weathered. Sealing sooner can trap it, making it almost impossible to remove and discolouring your paving.